I am not going to rehash the plot here, I'm sure others have done so and you can get that in some capacity from many sources. The author was on the expedition which this book is about, and it was a bold one to say the least; the first winter ascent of Mt Mckinley. He does a great job inviting us onto Mt McKinley (it was not Denali in 1967, at least not in the public mind) and this is a quick and pleasing read. However he does not interweave as deftly the history and personal story lines that have taken the genre to new places in the past decade or so. Granted Art wrote this in 1969 at which time he'd sworn off expeditions -- largely as a result of holing up in snow cave in a hurricane at 18,000 plus feet for 8 days - so the books that I'm used to reading from adventure writers simply feel more modern. Regardless of this I would highly reccomend this read, and I would also pair it with Forever on the Mountain by James Tabor; about the Wilcox expedition on the same mountain a mere 3-4 months after the first winter ascent (which ended up changing the rules for how Mountains would be climbed in general - not from the mountaineering standpoint, but rather from the standpoint of how gov't officials approved and approached expeditions). For any armchair expeditioner -- such as myself -- the literature on McKinley is essential. This is a mountain that can be every bit as evil and unforgiving as the nastiest Himalayian peak, the weather and the relief are actully in most cases at least equal. Donavan's book is certainly a great read. I bought the paperback reprint, but if I had a do-over I'd look for an early edition as I suppose they must be out there.

October 12, 2008

Pretty Good Description of Event

I'm not sure, but I may have been one of the pilots on the C-130 that helped to coordinate the rescue of the team off of Mt. McKinley. Rescue 489 sounds like one of the 17th Troop Carrier Squadron's aircraft. And, I recall dropping (parachuting) a couple of radios on the emergency frequency to a climbing team that we helped rescue. The aircraft commander and I are discussing this particular rescue as "I speak."

As I recall, the person from the expedition that was talking to me was very very reluctant to leave the climb, finally asking what it would cost. When the team was assured that there would be "no cost," things did change... :-)

On the rescue that I'm describing, perhaps the one covered in this book, the Army Huey helicopter had difficulty landing at such a high elevation, and carrying out such a load. I watched as the helicopter lifted off, and it had to dive down toward the base of the mountain to get into more dense air, and to gain associated lift. On the way back to the airport, we slowed the C-130 down, and lowered the flaps, so the Huey helicopters could fly on each wing tip...
December 23, 2007

great book

this is a fantastic read, if you have ever climbed any mountain this would probably interest you
August 23, 2007

Amazing

I loved how suspenseful it is when they are trapped in the snow cave for a week. I would definetly recommend this book to anyone about the age of 12. It is kind of challenging.
March 16, 2006

READ THIS BOOK!

this was an awesome book. it was so suspensful i couldnt put it down it was like my fingers and eyes were glued to the book.i had a great time reading it.the people in this book went through alot of bad luck.im not going to describe it though for those of you review readers who havent read the book.this book was the complete oppisite of a waste of time and i highly recommend reading it because there is so many bad things happening like death, frostbite, and wind speeds i didnt even know were possible that its amazing anyone could have survived a adventure such as that.this was a good book i highly recommened it for anyone looking for a good time , or anyone who hasnt read a good book lately, or ,OH THE HELL WITH IT! I recommened this book to anyone, anywhere, anytime!
April 23, 2004

SIMILAR PRODUCTS

K2, The Savage Mountain: The Classic True Story of Disaster and Survival on the World's Second Highest Mountain
by Charles S. Houston, Robert H. Bates
by Jim Wickwire

Forever on the Mountain: The Truth Behind One of Mountaineering's Most Controversial and Mysterious Disasters
by James M. Tabor

In the Shadow of Denali: Life and Death on Alaska's Mt. McKinley
by Jonathan Waterman

In the Amazon Jungle
by Algot Lange

The Worst Journey in the World
by Apsley Cherry-Garrard