Initial tests with a natural dye produced by the Amazonian fungus Talaromyces amestolkiae show that eco-friendly cosmetics, such as face creams, gel sticks, and shampoos, can be developed with antioxidant and antibacterial properties.
This finding is significant because microbial dyes, which are still under-explored in cosmetic research, can serve as a sustainable alternative to synthetic dyes.
The fungus produces vibrant dyes ranging from red to yellow with high industrial potential. Several countries have recently banned or restricted the use of certain synthetic dyes due to their links to allergies and other health issues. Consequently, demand for environmentally friendly and healthy products has increased.
According to the data, the extract reduced by more than 75% the substances that react with oxygen upon contact with the skin; in other words, it reduced compounds that can cause cell damage. Additionally, tests showed that over 60% of cells remained alive, indicating that the product does not compromise skin health.
The data was published in the journal ACS Omega .
Juliana Barone Teixeira conducted the research, which was supervised by Valéria de Carvalho Santos-Ebinuma . Both researchers are from the School of Pharmaceutical Sciences at São Paulo State University (FCFAr-UNESP) in Araraquara, Brazil. Joana Marques Marto from the University of Lisbon in Portugal also participated in the research.
The study included contributions from researchers at the Ribeirão Preto School of Pharmaceutical Sciences at the University of São Paulo (FCFRP-USP) and was supported by FAPESP (projects 23/13069-0 , 23/01368-3 , 24/19904-1 , 24/16647-8 , 24/16477-5 eand 21/06686-8 ).
“We were able to demonstrate that this dye can be applied in cosmetic formulations while maintaining safety, functionality, texture, and overall performance, without causing any impact on the formulation and the experience of potential customers,” explains Teixeira, the first author of the article.
“What initially drew attention to this fungus was its color. From there, we began a series of studies. It took more than ten years to reach this stage of production,” says Ebinuma.
According to the researchers, marketing studies have shown that color is one of the main factors influencing product purchases. Some sales strategies evoke emotion based on these sensations to attract consumers.
“We sought a partner who worked with cosmetics, so Professor Joana from the University of Lisbon helped us with different formulations,” Ebinuma explains.
“Not all microorganisms cause harm or health problems. Some produce beneficial compounds. This is an area that has grown, and it’s precisely where we work with biotechnology, using these living beings or components of these living beings for the benefit of society,” says the researcher.
“Instead of evaluating the dye in isolation, we seek to study it within a final formulation, considering everything that should be in a product placed on the shelf,” Teixeira emphasizes.
The discovery
Ebinuma began studying the fungus Talaromyces amestolkiae during her doctoral studies when she met Professor Maria Francisca Simas Teixeira. Teixeira was the curator of the Culture Collection of the Department of Parasitology at the Federal University of Amazonas (UFAM) and one of the leading authorities in the field of mycology in Brazil. She passed away last year.
She and her students found the fungus scattered among the trees on campus and added it to her collection. Since then, T. amestolkiae has aroused the interest of researchers because it produces dyes ranging from intense yellows and oranges to reds.
“When we began to study it, we found that it produced this red coloration. It’s a fungus found in nature, but it likes specific conditions, for example, the high temperatures of Manaus [ capital of the state of Amazonas ]. So, what we did was simulate a temperature close to that of Manaus so that it would produce this red dye in the laboratory as well,” Ebinuma explains.
The professor also highlights the importance of continuing to study native species because there is much to discover in Amazonian biodiversity. “There may be other similar species,” the scientist comments.
Next steps
Currently, approximately 20 undergraduate and graduate students are involved in the research group’s studies. According to Ebinuma, some of this work seeks to understand how the dye can be applied to fabrics or foods, such as gelatin. “We have several fronts for this fungus and are also studying others,” she says.
One of the main goals, according to the researcher, is to improve all the processes involved in dye production. “Today I produce 1 gram [ g ] of this type of dye, but the goal is to reach 10 g. What’s the path we can take from 1 g to 10 g? That’s why there’s a network of students and teachers involved in this,” the researcher says.
About São Paulo Research Foundation (FAPESP)
The São Paulo Research Foundation (FAPESP) is a public institution with the mission of supporting scientific research in all fields of knowledge by awarding scholarships, fellowships and grants to investigators linked with higher education and research institutions in the State of São Paulo, Brazil. FAPESP is aware that the very best research can only be done by working with the best researchers internationally. Therefore, it has established partnerships with funding agencies, higher education, private companies, and research organizations in other countries known for the quality of their research and has been encouraging scientists funded by its grants to further develop their international collaboration. You can learn more about FAPESP at www.fapesp.br/en and visit FAPESP news agency at www.agencia.fapesp.br/en to keep updated with the latest scientific breakthroughs FAPESP helps achieve through its many programs, awards and research centers. You may also subscribe to FAPESP news agency at http://agencia.fapesp.br/subscribe .
ACS Omega
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8-Dec-2025