Skin aging, driven by collagen degradation and chronic inflammation, remains a prevalent dermatological challenge. In particular, retinol, the gold-standard anti-aging compound, can cause redness, peeling or burning in many users, limiting its utility. Meanwhile, bakuchiol, a plant-based retinol alternative, offers similar collagen-boosting effects but also suffers from similar collagen-boosting effects but faces challenges, including redness and itching in a small subset of users and transdermal permeability that still requires further enhancement to unlock its full anti-aging potential.
To address these challenges, a collaborative effort between Mr. Tao Zhang’s team at Better Way (Shanghai) Cosmetics Co., Ltd. and Professor Jiaheng Zhang’s group from Harbin Institute of Technology (Shenzhen) led to the development of a supramolecular delivery system. The study integrates bakuchiol with Mat-LA IL— a biocompatible ionic liquid synthesized from matrine, a natural anti-inflammatory agent, and lauric acid, a permeability-enhancing fatty acid.
By leveraging computational chemistry, the team modeled hydrogen bonding and van der Waals interactions to precisely optimize the self-assembly of supramolecular bakuchiol into uniform 18-nm nanoparticles, ensuring targeted delivery into the epidermis and dermis for maximal efficacy.
Notably, the permeability of supramolecular bakuchiol was 4.17 times that of retinol and 3.48 times that of bakuchiol. Compared with bakuchiol and retinol, at 0.01% supramolecular bakuchiol could decrease TNF-α activity (inhibition rate 20.16%), inhibit MMP content in cells (inhibition rate 51.87%), and promote collagen-I production in human skin fibroblasts (promotion rate 75.11%). Moreover, the expression levels of col1a1a, col1a1b, and col1a2 genes were upregulated, which promotes collagen synthesis and exerts anti-aging effects on the skin.
For the US$150 billion skincare market, this breakthrough addresses the surging demand for gentle yet high-performance anti-aging solutions. Supramolecular bakuchiol emerges as a retinol alternative tailored for sensitive skin, positioning it as a transformative innovation with vast commercial potential in anti-aging cosmetics.
###
Contact the author: Tao Zhang, Research and Innovation Laboratory, Better Way (Shanghai) Cosmetics Co., Ltd. Shanghai 201400, P. R. China. Email: zhangt@mistinechina.com
The publisher KeAi was established by Elsevier and China Science Publishing & Media Ltd to unfold quality research globally. In 2013, our focus shifted to open access publishing. We now proudly publish more than 200 world-class, open access, English language journals, spanning all scientific disciplines. Many of these are titles we publish in partnership with prestigious societies and academic institutions, such as the National Natural Science Foundation of China (NSFC).
Supramolecular Materials
Anti-aging and anti-inflammatory fulfilled through the delivery of supramolecular bakuchiol in ionic liquid
The authors declare no conflict of interest.