In a review published in the Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology , a team of researchers reported that skin pigmented spots are far more than just clusters of melanin—they are complex biological systems, or "microenvironments", involving multiple cell types and regulated by a diverse array of factors.
"Traditionally, the focus has been almost solely on melanocytes and melanin production," explains Dr. Xin Nie, lead author of the review. "Our analysis shows that pigmented spots are like dysfunctional micro-ecosystems.”
In particular, pigmented spots feature immune cell infiltration, branched blood capillaries, a disrupted skin barrier, and a distinct microbial community. “This fundamentally changes how we should approach developing solutions," says Nie.
The findings suggest that the next generation of effective depigmenting ingredients must move beyond simply blocking tyrosinase. “A multi-target strategy is needed—one that also soothes inflammation, normalizes blood vessels, protects against sun exposure, and maintains a healthy skin microbiome, explains Nie.
The review points to advanced technologies like supramolecular technology and targeted liposomal delivery as crucial tools for developing these sophisticated, multi-action solutions, paving the way for more comprehensive and effective skincare.
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Contact the author: Xin Nie, Guyu Qingnang Institute of Biotechnology, Guangzhou Qingnang Biotechnology Co., Ltd., Guyu Biotechnology Group, Guangzhou, China, niexin@guyu.com.cn
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Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology
Pigmented skin spots: Morphological characteristics, common causes, and treatment with cosmetic ingredients
The authors declare the following financial interests/personal relationships which may be considered as potential competing interests: the authors report a relationship with Guyu Qingnang Institute of Biotechnology, Guangzhou Qingnang Biotechnology Co., Ltd., Guyu Biotechnology Group, Guangzhou, China that includes: employment. The corresponding author is Editorial BoardMember for Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology and were not involved in the editorial review or the decision to publish this article.